A Week in Provence

What a week! Montpellier, a jazz concert, the Carmargue, Roman architecture, two punctures, various disasters, generosity from strangers, perched villages, lavender fields, river, lakes and mountains!  

The first day was the worst...

I made an error of judgement in deciding to head south to the coast rather than through Nimes. I hit extreme tourism at Le Grande Motte and was so stressed out by it that I lost my way entirely and ended up cycling around what felt like every resort in the area! Once I'd got out of there I travelled north through the Camargue region, enjoying the sights of the marshes and traditional white horses and black bulls. The day was made challenging once again but by mosquitoes this time. It was extreme! I couldn't stop for more than a minute without them attacking me ferociously- even biting through my cycling shorts! The next problem was a puncture (my first!) which I took ages trying to repair before finding it leaked and then having to replace the inner tube. My insect repellant ran out. I arrived at my destination- Arles- at 9pm. The campsite I was aiming for didn't exist. I finally found a bed in a hotel at 10pm. The bar was closed. I managed to make a cup of tea for myself to aid recovery... Phew!

Carmargue horses. This was taken while cycling and there are no others as I couldn't stop due to the biting!

Repair time

Lots of old buildings

I've never been someone who cared or knew much about buildings but visiting Arles and Avignon (and Provence in general actually) has changed that. I got up early in Arles and saw the Roman amphitheatre and theatre when no one else was around and it really was impressive. To think of that amphitheatre being built before Jesus' time....unbelievable!  Imagining all of the gladiator conquests and events that took place there filled my head for a couple of hours of cycling following my visit. 

Amphitheatre in Arles in the early morning sunshine

Old streets in Arles

The Palais des Papes, Avignon 

Inside the Palais des Papes.

I arrived in Avingnon during the performing arts festival. Fun atmosphere- similar to Edinburgh.

I enjoyed watching these two. Contemporary dance teamed with French style classical guitar.

A cyclist's dreamland

The landscape continually took my breath away-literally!.After a month of cycling along the flat my legs were initially complaining, but the ups and downs of the hills, the fields full of fruits, lavender and sunflowers and the mountains in the distance were a stunning combination. I followed half of the tour of the Luberon from Cavaillon to Forcalquier. It's a really well planned cycle route, if a bit wiggly, all along minor roads and taking in many of the perched villages as well as great view points which were worth the climbs to get to them! 

One of the perched villages in the Luberon

Perfect road

It's a shame it didn't focus...

Provence hills

The top of my first big climb. The view was worth it. I was too late in the season for purple lavender though.

The sunset from a campsite one night

Saint-Michael-l'Observatoire. They built an observatory here in 1937!

After Forcalquier I turned north and began travelling through the Alps de Haute-Provence. It feels like my first month's cycling has all been a warm up for this- these mountains are huge! But I'm enjoying the challenge, the pride you feel at the top and the thumbs up and big grins I get from the very few other female cyclists I see on the road. 

Views of mountains. Fear and excitement in my belly! 

A brief detour to see the Gorges de la Meouge

Keeping up with a 'proper' cyclist. And he didn't even have panniers to slow him down

A swim at des 3 Lacs. Next to my campsite.

Lac Serre-Poncon (just visible)

Generosity from strangers...

...repeatedly grows my faith in the goodness of people, making me love the world more and feel scared of it less. This week's generosity highlights have included the man who drove me to Decathlon when I had my second puncture and no spare inner tube, my second set of Warmshowers hosts who took me to a brilliant jazz concert when I stayed with them for the night, Tabitha and her mum who I camped next to one night and who helped me to plan my route and Wiz and Phillipe who I stayed with in Cruis. I couldn't find a campsite so called them to ask for a bed in one of their gites but when they didn't have space they let me stay at their house instead. Wiz gave me tea and cake which was just the best thing when I arrived after a hard cycle. Then I joined her and friends who took out one of her donkeys and a cart for a local ride! We ate amazing food and chatted for hours. Lucky me. Their house is perched on the side of a mountain and has incredible views across Provence and into the Alps. If you're looking for a holiday in a quiet and less touristy area of Provence or are cycling through and need to stop for a night, you should go and stay with them! Www.wizinfrance.com (given up with hyper links- can't get them working on this app!)

I'm well and truly into the Alps now and have a lot of big climbs ahead of me over the next few days. Next time I write, I'll be in Italy! 

Just spent half an hour trying to map the route to put on here...and then it crashed and didn't save. Obviously. That will have to wait. 

Until next time...happy summer everyone! 

Cycling The Canal du Midi

The past week has been spent cycling down the Canal du Midi from Toulouse to the Mediterranean sea, and then on to Montpellier. I had great company in my mum and we had a proper holiday week: gentle cycling, great food and wine and plenty of time to enjoy the area. Lucky us!

The adventure began with the unpacking of mum's bike which had been carefully dismantled and wrapped for its flight by the lovely Ryan from the Bike Shed in Exeter.  Mum had called in his help after attempting the feat alone and then getting stuck even after enlisting the help of two neighbours! Martyn and Tracy (see previous post) very kindly spent an extra hour in Toulouse Airport car park helping us to put it all back together.

The bike before unpacking!

We approached Toulouse along the Garonne river which gave us great views of the city as we approached.  After a quick drink in Place du Capitole, Toulouse's main square, and a peek at Basilique de St-Sernin, we were off along the canal!

Basilique de St-Sernin

Our first meeting with the canal left us less than impressed, but things quickly improved and we trundled along in the shade of the plane trees and beside boats, pretty houses and lots of cyclists. Our first stop was Villenouvelle where we stayed in a lovely B and B, jumping straight into the pool as we arrived and then enjoying dinner with the owners and other guests. By this point both mum and I were concerned as to whether she would survive the trip at all due to her reaction to the heat- I thought she might explode after a couple of hours of cycling! We soon learned to manage it though. See more on that later. 

Unimpressed meeting the canal for the first time

Canal views

A triple lock

Canal side

The next stop was Castlenaudary where we were both glad to try Cassoulet, the local dish, and not to have to eat it again! 

Castlenaudary 

Trying Cassoulet

Then the impressive and popular Carcassone which we explored in the evening after the heat and crowds had subsided. 

The old city in the background

The climb up to it!

The gravel and bumpy paths had been making me stroppy so the next few days we took some of those famously lovely quiet French back roads and enjoyed exploring villages and whizzing past grapes, figs and olives which were growing everywhere. Our next stop was Homps where we found a lovely lake for a swim and a sleep after the day's ride.

These paths look lovely but do not make me happy 

Vineyards and mountains 

Pretty villages 

Pretty bike

Next up was Beziers which we skirted around and said goodbye to the canal as that was due to be the end of our following it. However, the next day I confidently led us away from our campsite and it wasn't until we'd been in an industrial estate for a while and couldn't find any roads other than a dual carriageway that I admitted I'd got us lost! In the end google maps and the canal saved us when we found it again and followed a footpath along side it down to the sea.  Our first sighting of the Mediterranean was magical as we found ourselves on this long strip of sand with water either side, endless beach and very few people. Perfect for swimming in the bluest water!

Mountain views

First sight of the Mediterranean 

Bikes safe while we swim

The next two nights we spent camping at the youth hostel in Sete. It's high up above the town so gave us great views and a base from which to explore the area.  We took our time wandering through the old town and beside canals, swimming in the sea and eating great sea food. 

Our final day's ride was to Montpellier and we followed the coast and then the river Lez right in to the city. Son after leaving Sete and Frontignan we were surrounded by water. Sea, canals, lakes, rivers and at one point a canal built through the middle of a lake! 

The canal is the middle stretch of water. Lake on the left. Sea on the right. 

Montpellier was surprisingly interesting for mum who had expected it to be a "Marks and Spencer's town" which apparently is a town without much except for shops- not her preferred type of town. It turned out to be interesting and full of energy though. We explored the cathedral, medical school (first in the world), old windy streets and enjoyed the luxury of a hotel for the night! 

A cathedral door 

Light from stained glass windows inside the cathedral

And now I'm going solo again for the first time in a while! I am heading through Provence, the Alps and over into Italy- wish me luck! 

I've run out of time on wifi but look out for another blog following soon: '10 ways to keep your mother cool on cycle tour in the heat'.

I'm afraid I don't have a map of the route so far yet. Haven't worked out how to do this yet. For those asking for more regular updates, find me on Instagram where I put something up most days. My account is: Emilyseuropeancycleadventure. 

Distance cycled (approximate as I don't have a bike computer- just paper maps!): 1800k

To Biarritz and beyond!

After my last post I continued travelling south towards the end of my destination on the Velodyssey- Biarritz.  I passed endless surfing beaches and mostly cycled along super tracks in the forest as well as a tour around marshes in Arcachon bay and a couple of lake visits near to Biscarosse. I camped all the way apart from my first Warmshowers night with a lovely French couple, Sylvie and Bernard. They were generous hosts, providing great food, a warm shower (!), comfy bed and many cycling stories.

Marshes and lakes around Arcachon bay

Biscarosse lake. I arrived in the evening and had this spot to myself!

View from the campsite at Biscarosse lake

Trees trees trees

I met David and Mattheus on a campsite one evening and offered to help them out by showing them the route the next day. They had an interesting set up having never done any cycle touring before, but the next day I quickly learned that their version of 'relaxed' cycling meant travelling really fast and then enjoying long breaks- or just relaxing for most of the day. We had the most fun times- beach, sea, food, wine, cycling fast and exploring French towns. We travelled together for four days, taking our time and enjoying the journey, after which I left them at Biarritz. They are continuing right down the Spanish coast and hope to reach Portugal before the end of the summer. 

The set up. One ladies bike complete with basket (absent from the photo) and one city bike with box tied onto the back.cstill super speedy.

Another lake en route

The cycle team 

Refuelling along the way

I was sad to leave the sea and particularly Biarritz which I wasn't able to explore as much as I had hoped due to arriving later than anticipated. I wasn't able to surf either due to an injury, but it's definitely on my list of places to go back to! It was quite something to arrive there, having seen only flat landscapes for two weeks, then for the Pyrenean mountains and impressive Spanish coast line to come in to view. 

After Biarritz I caught a train from Bayonne to Toulouse. An impressive journey with views of the Pyrenees and a quick glimpse of Lourdes (so much gold!) as we sped past. I was met by the wonderful Martyn and Tracy who hosted me in their new dream home. We had a very relaxing two days during which I recharged my batteries, slept in a real bed, washed my clothes in a washing machine, ate great food and chatted non stop! Martyn used to be a colleague of mine and I felt very glad to have taken up his offer of a visit. What a treat!

After a couple of days there it was back to Toulouse to meet Mum for our trip down the Canal du Midi. Will update on that when we have finished next week!

Distance so far: 1400km